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FrankC
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 4:35 am 
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Do you all carve a piece of kerfing out and insert the back brace or stop your braces right at the kerfing?
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John Mayes
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 4:53 am 
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I inlet the braces into the kerfing.

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LanceK
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I rout slots in the kerfing to except the brace ends.







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Mark Tripp
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I also inlet the bracing into the kerfing.

-Mark

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Jim Watts
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I do it just like Lance also.

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Don Williams
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 7:09 am 
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Lance, I saw some dust in there bro...better get out the magnifying glass again...

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LanceK
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 7:11 am 
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[QUOTE=Don Williams] Lance, I saw some dust in there bro...better get out the magnifying glass again...[/QUOTE]

WHAT ! where!

I got that out before I topped it! I swear i did!
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Michael Dale Payne
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 7:55 am 
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Don needs better glasses. He missed the piece trapped under the lining in the second picture


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KiwiCraig
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 9:51 am 
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    Discusting

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KiwiCraig
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I mean Disgusting

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Don Williams
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 10:35 am 
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Michael, I saw that piece too, which might be GLUE SQUEEZE-OUT. Talks about sloppy! But I was also thinking of the stuff on the center seam. He even left the pencil mark on the brace....shame on him!


Man, retirement is nice...I can pick on someone else instead of my own work!

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Alan Carruth
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 11:23 am 
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The reason for inletting bracing is that glues generally have low peel resistance. If one end of the brace gets loose it can simply peel up.

Suppose you've got an un-inletted brace, and there is some pressure on the plate just above the end of the brace denting the plate in. If the brace end is not flexible enough to bend with the plate it will peel.

Most of the time the braces run more or less across the grain, and wood is much stiffer with the grain than across it. Thus the brace end has to be a lot lower than the thickness of the plate if it is to be able to flex along with it.

So: the rule is, any brace that can't be smoothly and completely feathered out at the ends needs to be inletted.

A good example of how _not_ to do it is the old Gibsons. They would sand a taper into the brace ends so that they were quite thin where they hit the sides, and then count on the brace to squash the liner when the back or top was glued on. Often enough it was the liner that squashed the brace, fracturing it just at the junction of the liner. Back whan I was doing a lot of repairs peeled braces were more common on Gibsons than any other brand. I had people bring the guitars in with the shoulder brace simply missing, and wondering why the action was high.... "Oh, was that piece of wood rattling around inside _important_?" Well, yeah....
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Bill Greene
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 11:27 am 
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[QUOTE=Don Williams] Man, retirement is nice...I can pick on someone else instead of my own work![/QUOTE]


Why is there never a mirror around when you need one...oh, there it is.

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Philip Perdue
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 11:34 am 
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Lance,

What a beautiful and professional looking job. I do have a question about the bracing. It appears that the back braces are more than sturdy. Is this about normal for back bracing or can the box be braced a bit lighter? The finished center strip is very nice and looks so much better then the square edge center strips that I have seen.

Philip

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L. Presnall
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 30, 2005 12:48 pm 
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It's okay Lance, it probably fell outta your hair!    Explains why I'm finding HAIR in my guitars!

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